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After WWII, modernizing was the general tone of the day. And for the small wineries in the South of France, that meant the adoption of pesticides, herbicides, and the effort to train vines on straight wires to facilitate machine picking. At first the yields were better, the grapes had fewer problems with mold and various ailments, and everyone was happy. But, along the way, the soil became exhausted, more of each chemical and newer chemicals were needed for the same effect.... Well, in the early 1970s, Domaine Terres Blanches, the winery located on the hillsides of the Alpilles in between the townships of St. Rémy and Eygalières, began to work organically. Terres Blanches is a lucky winery, M. Michelin of Michelin tires is behind it, and they have the means to express their hopes and dreams. Together with innovative farmers and biologists, they both returned to the world of organic farming, and redefined it. Today, the tools and methods used by so many in this region were developed at this winery. We very much enjoy their rich fruity red, and when the year is particularly good, they make their cuvée prestige and name it the cuvée Aurelia. Of all the wines I mention in this article, theirs will be the easiest to find exported to the United States, Great Britain, Germany and further abroad.

Not everyone in the region has followed suit. However, amongst those that have their is a small winery in Vauvert in the Gard (part of the larger area known as the Languedoc), which makes predominantly simple vins de pays, and when the harvest is good, an AOC Costières de Nîmes. The closest neighbor to Terres Blanches, the Domaine D'Eole, under the guidance of wine-maker Mathias Wimmer. And a small family winery in Rasteau, part of the appelation Côte du Rhône Villages.

Jean Paul Cabanis in Vauvert has now been working organically for 15 years, longer than many. His winery is a small one, located on the west side of the Rhône on lands he identifies as resembling those of Châteauneuf-du-Pape (rocky, dry soil, on the hillsides). He makes white, rosé and red wines as his ancestors have been doing at least as far back as his great grandfather, in the early 1800s. Apparently the name Cabanis crops up in many towns in Languedoc and is often indicative of their Protestant faith. In 1998, Jean Paul decided to begin making a higher quality wine which would qualify under the strict guidelines of the AOC Costières de Nîmes. It was surprisingly good, and if you can believe it, was selling for 20 francs (just over $3) in 1998, and then 30 francs (not quite $5) a bottle till stock was exhausted. We served this wine alongside far more prestigious and expensive bottles, and again and again people asked us where they could find this one... we didn't mention what we'd paid for it. And now there is no more. Not happy with his harvest in 1999, he only made his vin de pays that year. But, when we visited him during the early part of the harvest in 2000 and 2001 (a rarity, we try never to intrude during this hectic and delicate time, but he is a gracious and warm host so...) he looked upbeat and hopeful. Both years turned out well, amazingly so. And in particular, the 2001 is a year of deep, rich and fruity wines, both chez Cabanis, but also throughout the Rhone Valley.

Across the Rhône and a bit further north you'll find the Domaine de Trapadis on the outskirts of the village of Rasteau. There, the young Hélen Durand and his mother Michelle are business associates making some of the most delicious red wines in the region. He is known as a bit over-the-top, a little bit crazy, in his devotion to wine, wine-making, his vines, his lands... he lives and breathes grapes and wine.